Stories & Recipes
by tamara
Jun 21, 2021
You know I'm here for the beans. In any shape, color, dried or fresh, beans are the ultimate all year round source of comfort. The naming Mahune refers to the young podded beans, green, yellow, purple, Romano or any other kind. They are sweet and bursting with flavor in stews, salads and frittatas, and they are in season right now.
We had a small place outside of Sarajevo where my grandmother used to grow her vegetables, small scale and mostly recreational. Once I open the drawer labeled Buhotina in my memory, I could stay there for hours, watching her rhytmically disappear and reappear behind the tall vines of beans, not saying much, just showing me how big they had grown that year.
I am convinced however that her crop was merely a small fragment of the beans galore going on back in her Sarajevo kitchen. When a certain vegetable was in season, there would be so much of it on the market and it would be incredibly inexpensive for those couple of weeks that she couldn't help herself but buy her weight in it. Some would be preserved for the winter, some would be eaten straight away, prepared any way imaginable.
Some cook Mahune as a stew with veal or beef, but we like them best in this meatless version, with other seasonal veg and cooked in their own juices. Some would add some water or broth into the pan to speed up the cooking, but I am very opinionated and firmly belive adding water dilutes the flavor, while skipping it makes for the most concentrated flavor explosion and helps the beans preserve their shape. I do hate when things fall apart.
The cooking time can vary a bit, depending on the type and freshness of the podded beans you use, but you can control the level of doneness by checking in on them every once. Even al-dente they are yummy, but obviously the longer they cook, the deeper the flavors interlock.
You can use one type of the beans, or combine different types, depending on what you have on hand. My favorite are yellow Romano beans, as they are tender in both texture and flavor, but they are not widely available in Netherlands so anything works. During the summer months, my local Turkish grocery stocks a special variety of Turkish beans, with fat juicy beans on the inside and slightly bitter pods, which are also yummy in this dish. I count around 200-250 grams podded beans per adult, young kids will obivously eat a bit less, but I doubt there will be any leftovers. Add a boiled potato on the side or serve over some rice, and you've got yourself a wholesome lunch the next day. Mahune taste great (if not better) cooked in advance.
Serves 4
in a shallow, wide (saute) pan, with a fitting lid
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 50 minutes
Resting time (10 minutes (or make a few hours in advance)
800g - 1kg young podded beans, like romano, haricot vert or haricot jaune
1 large onion
3 young carrots
1-2 (depending on the size) pointed peppers (preferably red or yellow)
3 tbs olive oil
sea salt and black pepper
2 tsp sweet paprika, optional
1-2 large ripe tomato, grated, the skin discarded
handful of flat parsley leaves, finelly chopped
Prepare the vegetable. Leave the haricot vert or jaune whole or break them in two, cut the Romano beans in 4-5 cm long pieces.Chop the rest of the veg (onion, carrots, peppers) as finely as possible, so they almost fall apart during cooking, creating a chunky supporting-act sauce for the beans.
Heat the olive oil in the pan, add the onions, and fry them on low fire for about 5 minutes, until light yellow. Do not brown them. Add the finely chopped carrot and peppers and fry for another 5 minutes or so, stirring regularly.
Add the podded beans, sweet paprika, some salt and black pepper to the pan, stir until well combined and cover with the lid. Cook for at least half an hour for soft young summer beans, or longer if the beans are older or harder. Stir the beans from time to time, but put the lid back each time after stirring to ensure that the juices stay in the pan. Taste for doneness and seasoning. All the veg in the pan is naturally sweet so you will probably need to season with some extra salt.
When the beans are almost done, add the grated tomato, combine and cook for another 10-15 minutes. Finish with finely chopped parsley, turn off the heat and cover once again, leaving the stew to rest for about 10 minutes.
Serve with nice fresh bread to dip in the sauces, baked or boiled potatoes and top with a dollop of sour cream, preferably Smetana.
TIP: he best thing about this recipe is that you can vary with ingredients and amounts depending on what you have on hand. For example, in the Italian-ish version pictured below, I combined green & Romano beans, skipped carrot, pointed peppers and sweet paprika all together, but used garlic and chili flakes instead. Added finely chopped parsley in the beginning instead of in the end I finished with a generous handful of basil after resting.
You can use canned tomatoes instead of fresh, or some tomato paste in addition to the fresh ones in case they lack flavor.
Honestly? Best eaten bare foot, straight from the pan. Because summer.